Bamako is the capital of Mali, located on the Niger river. With a population of around 1.7 million, it's the largest city in the country and one of the largest in West Africa. Mali's capital city (pop. 1,379,000), which lies astride the Niger River, is a great place to just people-watch and walk around. Although the original colonial-style Grand Marche burned down in 1993, the merchants continue to set up their stalls inside the market grounds in the city center, which lies on the river's north bank. The market has bargains on masks, food, rugs and pottery. Nearby is the Artisanat (carvings and leather handicrafts), where we enjoyed watching Malian artwork being made as well as sold. The market is a great place to find recordings of the ebullient local music. Just opposite the cassette sellers are the traditional medicine vendors, who sell an assortment of porcupine quills, dried birds, monkey heads, tusks and other curiosities that are said to cure any ailment. Other markets whose wares include masks and musical instruments line the Niger River. Wherever you shop, be prepared to bargain. The city has plenty of colonial buildings. The Musee National, between the Presidential Palace and Omnisport Stadium, is worth a visit (textiles, masks and statuary). If you find yourself in the smart quartiere, or suburb, of Niarela, northeast of the city center, stop in the Campagnard restaurant and hotel, an air-conditioned expat hangout where you can exchange currency and traveler's checks. Bamako's best supermarket, Le Metro, is just underneath the Campagnard, and nearby is one of our favorite restaurants, Cafe Bozo. North of Bamako is Point.

Getting in by Plane

Bamako-Sénou Airport is roughly 15km (30–40 minutes) from the city center, with flights from Paris on Point Afrique (cheap) and Air France (less cheap). Flights to Europe are also offered by Royal Air Maroc, via Casablanca -- the main drawback to this option is that the flight from BKO to Casablanca leaves at 3:35am. Taxi rides should cost about 7000 CFA from the city. Passengers flying Air France should consider pré-enregistrement, or early check-in. This can be done at the Air France office on the day of the flight, between 10AM and 5PM. The office is located at Square Lumumba. Luggage is dropped off and boarding passes issued as would happen at the airport, minus the crowds and the hassle. The airport is typical of many in this part of Africa. This is a small airport with a limited number of shops and space. Electricity outages, plunging the airport and the runway, into pitch darkness are common. Disabled passengers will need help. The waiting area is up a spiral staircase, and the boarding area down another staircase. There are some questionable elevators, which shouldn't be relied upon if at all possible.